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| Zanmai Sushi: Tsukiji | |||
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As a dish of consummate Zen-like simplicity, sushi generally evokes a critical response that is similarly simplistic, if not especially Zen-like - "Is it fresh?" Received wisdom has it that the place in Tokyo for the very freshest sushi has to be the sushi shops around Tsukiji market. And there at Tsukiji, in two locations amid the stalls and stores surrounding the market you can find Sushi Zanmai, open 24 hours a day.
Sushi Zanmai is a popular spot, packed even at 3:30 in the afternoon with a largely elderly clientele, who have the time to spare. The interior is open and bright - high ceilings and paper lights, with effervescent, forgettable background music. The atmosphere is relaxed and reasonably friendly, efficient rather than cordial. A picture menu in English is whipped out for non-Japanese customers. From a large tank behind the counter, the finny inhabitants survey their fate. The prices explain the popularity: squid, octopus, salmon, bintoro are priced at Y98 a piece. As you would expect, the sushi itself is traditional in style with no surprises. And, well, it is fresh. With vision and venture capital, Sushi Zanmai could probably market itself nicely as a chain of low-price, Tsukiji-fresh eateries across the city. For traditional, low-priced fare, Sushi Zanmai is worth checking out. There is certainly no handier place to stop for a bite if you want to join the bleary-eyed ranks of those out to see the fascinating early-morning goings-on at the world's biggest fish market. by David Capel |
Zanmai Sushi
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