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| L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Salon de The: Nihonbashi | |||
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The "salon de the" - the French tea salon, is an oasis, a destination offering tranquility in a cup, and light nourishment - a sandwich, a bowl of soup, or a slice of freshly-made tart.
Takashimaya, Tokyo's grandest department store, and Joel Robuchon, France's most famous chef, have wedded their talents to offer shoppers a chance to rest their feet, cool their credit cards, and refresh themselves with a cup of tea. The grand dame of Nihonbashi - with her statuary in the entranceways, her high ornate ceilings, and hand-operated elevators with gleaming brass doors and white-gloved attendants - is the perfect venue to host Robuchon's very chic Salon de The - his first anywhere. Nestled among the high-priced boutiques, this stylish jewel box of a shop shares much of the ambiance and menu of the chef's superb restaurant L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Roppongi Hills. The petit salon is simply but stunningly laid out - black granite floor, dark mahogany walls, and a sinuous red leather banquette backed by glittering glass curtains of diamond-cut crystal beads. Off to one side is an alcove with a sushi-bar like counter surrounding an open kitchen where you can watch miniature dishes of creme brulee as they are sugared and torched for a carmelized glaze, or watch a sweet souffle prepared from scratch. The extensive menu offers light meals - sandwiches, soups, composed salads, crepes, waffles, and hot cakes - and a wide selection desserts, cakes, tarts, and Robuchon's exquisite macaroons. Teas, coffees, fresh juices, beer and wines by the glass round out the menu. Many of the dishes offered in the salon are from the L'Atelier menu, including several of my favorites such as the emerald-toned herb salad, the summery gazpacho soup, or the luscious chicken broth with foie gras ravioli. Several of the signature L'Atelier desserts are also featured - the fresh fruit cup with basil ice cream, and the Chartreuse-flavored souffle with its scoop of pistachio ice cream that you can let melt down into the warm souffle. Robuchon applies the same exacting standards and attention to detail to a clubhouse sandwich as he does to the highest haute cuisine. And to make sure everything is just so, the tea salon is under the watchful eye of Yosuke Suga, the tireless young Chef-Directeur of L'Atelier in Roppongi Hills. Nowhere in Tokyo is a sandwich served with more style. Each perfectly-cut sandwich comes artfully arranged with a small cup of soup, pickles, a gem-like salad, and french fries. Between the carefully toasted slices of bread are intriguing combinations such as crab with avocado and fresh tomato, salmon with sorrel, or a classic clubhouse. The tartines, open-faced sandwiches, are equally appealing with choices such as tomato, zucchini, eggplant and mozzarella cheese, or asparagus with Parma ham and Gruyere cheese. Robuchon has another huge hit on his hands. Everyone is made very welcome here. Young women in jeans and black sweaters sit with their boyfriends, and matrons sit with their gold bracelets and ruby rings. The service, by eager young staff in well-cut maroon and black outfits, is very good. The coffee is excellent. And the tarte citron is the best in the city. Perhaps the most appealing aspect of this tea salon is that the prices are not steep. In fact, they're very reasonable. If you are in the neighborhood, this little oasis is well worth seeking out. by Michael Kleindl |
L'Atelier de Joel | ||
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