Guidebooks are often over-detailed, by-the-numbers, authoritative prescriptions by an author you'd not care to have a cup of coffee with. Not so with these two friendly little books. The authors speak with such warmth, enthusiasm and knowledge, you feel they are walking alongside you. Co-author Mimi LeBourgeois writes in her introduction:

"A walk with Sumiko Enbutsu is unlike one with ordinary folk. With her discerning eye and deep familiarity with Japanese history, she knows how to find the narrower road and the unsung small sights that intrigue before we come to the major destinations."

Fourteen walks, covering all areas of Tokyo, are described in Water Walks. Each walk is introduced by a short essay detailing the area's history and current charms. The directions are very clear and given step-by-step, so to speak, so that finding your way is very easy:

"From Edogawabashi station take exit 1a. Cross the bridge and turn left to walk along the Kanda (also called the Edogawa). Carp may be seen in the stream. Beyond a wisteria trellis, look for a short artificial stream. Its beginning is marked by a rectangular stone block and a few others that have been saved from the Edo-period Sekiguchi Dam, the source of fresh water for the Kanda Canal."

Each walk also has a simple, fold-out map annotated with distances and approximate walking times, historical notes, and other points of interest, including shops, restaurants, and coffee shops. Station and other important names are provided in both English and Japanese. Unfortunately, there is no table of contents which is awkward when looking for a walk. But the last map is a view of all the walks overlaid on a map of the city, so that you can choose a walk according to which area of Tokyo you'd like to explore.

The walks are briefly and evocatively summarized. Two of my favorites are the Kanda Walk: "A walk to trace the route of the now-lost Kanda Canal, visiting beautiful old gardens which have survived urbanization. About 6.0 km, 3 hours."

And the Inokashira Pond Walk: "Approach this beautiful pond from its south side, following the footsteps of Edo people. Sheltered by the shade of trees, the Benten shrine is surrounded by numerous silent witnesses of devotion in bygone days. About 2.0 km, 1 hour."

The other Tokyo walks are: Oji, Shakuji, Omiya Hachiman, Tamagawa Josui, Hamura, Koganei, Jindai-ji, Komae, Yaho Tenjin, Takahata Fudo, Nobidome, Minuma.

Water Walks is printed on washi-like paper and attractively bound -- obviously a labor of love. Each walk is illustrated with contemporary photographs and a woodblock print view of the area taken from the Edo Meisho Zue, (Famous Places in Edo), published in the early 1800s. Some scenes, such as the Eifuku Hachiman area, are remarkably unchanged.

The only fault with this lovely little book is that 14 walks are not enough.

Nine additional walks are described in The Sumida Crisscross. Each course crosses the Sumida river at least once to show off old and new bridges and the varying views from each one. This equally lovely book is organized in the same way as Water Walks -- a brief essay, detailed instructions, and a fold-out map, beautifully colored and illustrated. Enbutsu has given the same careful attention to detail, historical notes, and clear directions.

Whereas Water Walks introduces you to all areas of Tokyo, The Sumida Crisscross focuses on Shitamachi, the "downtown" of Tokyo, as Enbutsu says in her introduction:

"Artistic taste and lifestyles inspired by the riverscape have formed the mental and emotional attitude of Tokyoites. With feelings of intimate attachment, the natives of Tokyo call the Sumida the Mother River."

These nine walks will acquaint you with areas of Tokyo you might otherwise never visit, but which are the heart of this great city: Asakusa and Mukojima, Kanegafuchi and Higashi Mukojima, Komagata and Kuramae, Asakusabashi and Ryogoku, North Fukagawa, South Fukagawa, Ningyocho and Shinkawa, Tsukiji, Tsukuda and Tsukishima.

The authors obviously love Tokyo and communicate this affection in the selection and descriptions of their walks. Water Walks and The Sumida Crisscross are not just for walkers -- they are indispensable for anyone interested in Tokyo.