Most baths are laid out on a square grid. Everything is at right angles, as though to accommodate troops being drawn up for review. Yuamilando's layout is a good deal more relaxed. The roomy cold bath is triangular and the electric bath and the massage bath are kidney shaped. The washing stations are scattered about in nooks so you can scrub down away from the crowd if you like.

There is a baroque sensibility at work here. In the sauna, which is arranged like a mini Greek amphitheater and costs a reasonable 300 yen with two towels thrown in, the music might be Scarlatti. There are Greek columns at the entrance and Egyptian columns in the carpeted, movie-palace lobby. In one washing area, there is a faux 18th-century mosaic of a Christ-like figure ascending to heaven accompanied by winged cherubs fresh from the bath.

It should be noted that the water in the cramped roofed rotemburo is lit from below by blue lights, an annoying distraction, but there is a little garden (curiously uninspired, though, after all these other flights of fancy) with a little bench to recover on. There is a pleasant pine-scented mist bath.

Beer is available on the premises for 300 yen a can.


current review

Yuamilando
4-2-10 Eifuku Suginami-ku
Tel: 03.3328.4639

Closed: Monday
Nearest station: three-minute walk from Eifukucho station on the Inokashira line