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Soshigaya
Onsen is a natural hot spring, its soft water heated in the bowels
of mother earth. Located in one of Tokyo's posher wards, it is several
cuts above your standard public bath. Actually, Soshigaya Onsen has
more in common with the lush marble-and-chromium private baths for
weary executives which will cost you ten times as much. As a public
bath, Soshigaya Onsen's basic fee - thanks to an indulgent city government
that looks on public baths the way the Roman senate looked on bread
and circuses - is just 360 yen.
For 1,000 yen, though, you get access to a whole range of goodies,
beginning with a roomy sauna with a 5-minute sand glass at each place.
There's also a 25-meter swimming pool lined with palm trees; a waterfall
to stand under to let water pound down on your head and shoulders;
a steam-mist sauna which is like being in a tropical rain forest;
a place where you can have needle sprays tickle you from 360 degrees;
a herbal pool with silky pitch-black water; and a wonderful invention
called the "Acqua Massage," which directs water under the pressure
of a fire hose at you underwater -- it's like sitting in a water wind
tunnel. Your 1,000 yen will also get you a bag containing a large
fluffy towel and a small tenugui towel, a miniature bar of soap, a
disposable razor, and vials of shampoo and rinse. Also for sale are
clean underwear and socks and a range of toiletries.
In the carpeted lobby, racks hold the latest newspapers and magazines
for all tastes, from comics to literary commentary. The walls are
hung with modern prints and paintings and there is an arrangement
of seasonal flowers. For 4,000 yen, you can have a 40-minute massage.
Beer is available on the corner. For well-crafted sushi, turn right
at the corner onto main street and a short walk will bring you to
Kinzushi (tel 03.3483.1413).
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