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The Grand
Edo onsen is a spanking new four-storeys in the Higashiyama district
of Ikejiro-oohashi in Meguro ward. Its traditional whitewash and blue
tile roofing over the entrance give an old-fashioned flavor to the
brand-new look. But the variety of baths plus the whirlpool, steam,
sauna and massage seem to be for the more modern-day sento user.
A big draw, however, is the medicinal benefit of soaking in real onsen
waters. The owners say it was pure luck that they found a hot spring
in the bowels of their building site, and that old, familiar sulphuric
smell of onsen is definitely present at the Grand Edo. You can float
in their "longevity" waters, in an outdoor rotemburo or indoors in
the "peace" bath, the"resting" and "walking" pools or the "let the
water hit you" jet bath. Or you can try all of them and walk out like
a dried prune. The rotemburo is tepid, but warm enough to make the
crisp, outside air pleasureable. A 45-minute massage is available
for 4,000 yen; a 50-minute acupuncture session is 5,000 yen, and you
can rent a private room with an elaborate airline-type reclining chair
for an hour-long after-bath snooze for 400 yen.
There is a restaurant that is more like a cafeteria, and a rather
smokey lounge with televisions blaring. The drawcurrent review to
modernization here is ubiquitous fluorescent lighting, tasteless modular
furniture, synthetic carpeting on cement floors and the overall feeling
that you're in a school gym. Gone is the feel and smell of warm, wet
cedar. Smoking is permitted anywhere except in the bath, so don't
be surprised to see a few bodies drying off for a quick butt and then
heading current review for another dip. All reasons why the place
is loved by its regulars.
Weekends are crowded. A visit mid-day, mid-week may be a little more
peaceful.
current review
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