In 1977 the city changed its mind about rotemburo - outside baths. Rural rotemburo had always had a delicious whiff of licentiousness, but in Tokyo, the sexes bathed separately, so the city assembly thought: why not? Nozawalando embraced the opportunity and installed Tokyo's first legal rotemburo. It is the work of a skilled stonemason: shallow and large enough for you to lie prone as the breeze fans your face and the water, heated to not much more than skin tempurature, laps your weary frame. In this world of temptations, it is the closest you will ever get to returning to the womb, and when you drag yourself out of the bath there is room to relax stretched out on duckboards next to the bath with your towel under your head as a pillow.

There is a vigorous electric bath and a herbal bath of unsubtle scent. Inside bathers can slide open glass doors to the outside, turning the whole bathhouse into a rotemburo. There are fluffy rugs in the sauna, which costs an additional 350 yen, and there is considerable more room at the hot and cold faucets than is usual, for expansive scrubbing sessions.

In the carpeted and chandeliered lobby ramune - old-fashioned lemonade - goes for 100 yen the classic bottle and there are two first-class massage chairs, the best I've ever seen (5 minutes for 100 yen), for which there may be people waiting.

There is beer just across the street.


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Nozawalando
4-4-11 Nozawa Setagaya-ku
Tel: 03.3421.7171

Closed: Monday
Nearest station: 12-minute walk from Komazawa-daigaku station on the Shintamagawa line