Monozono-yu devotees are hooked on that delicious frisson that comes when you go directly from a sauna into a cold bath. The sauna here (for 300 yen extra) is a blistering 105 degrees and the cold bath, positioned right in the middle of the proceedings, is big enough for six and, most unusual, is roiled by jacuzzi -- which of course makes it seem even colder. After four or five cold-bath/sauna cycles, you won't be able to tell the difference between hot and cold and your nerves have the tensile strength of bubblegum. Bathers recover in a teahouse overlooking a garden with carp pool. Some bring novels.

There is a gentle electric bath and a bath which directs an underwater blast of water at each side while you rest your head on a pipe chilled by cold water running through it -- most refreshing. There's also a mist sauna with unobstrusive jungle sounds and, really as an afterthought, a small rotemburo. The water is from a deep well.

The beer is just around the corner. Nakano is a lively neighborhood with lots going on.


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Momozono-yokujo
3-4-8 Nakano Suginami-ku
Tel: 03.3382.4446

Closed: Wednesday