This is an Edo-period bath in a vibrant part of Old Tokyo, a long psychic distance from Shibuya at the opposite end of the Ginza line.

The well water here, the color of quick-brewed tea, is heated to a fierce 45 degrees Centigrade, submersion in which will in five seconds cause any tensed muscle to turn into tagliatelli. (This is the purpose of a real Japanese bath. Most baths these days are heated to a comparatively tepid 42 degrees, which does not bring on the orgasmic shudder of release that a really hot bath does. In these circumstances, Jakotsu-yu's commodious sauna for 400 yen extra is simply not worth it.)

The outside rotemburo, in a little pavilion hung with lamps, is more soothing and with the mizuburo cold bath outside right next to it there is no need to go current review inside once you have unglued all your synapses by immersing them in the ruthless bath inside.

Between dips, sit on a stool and drape yourself around the wooden railing while you contemplate, as if in a dream, the bath's rock garden and waterfall.

The massage chairs are antique but no less effective for that. There are coin-operated washing machines in the dressing room so it is possible to undress, put your clothes in the washer, take your bath, then retrieve and don your newly washed clothes without skipping a beat.

There is no handy place to buy a can of beer from a vending machine because the area is so full of little drinking places. Consider paying a visit to The Hub, a jazz pub around the corner, or to Matsukaze, a wonderful izakaya one street over.


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Jakotsu-yu
1-11-11 Asakusa Taito-ku
Tel: 03.3841.8645 Open: 1 p.m. till midnight

Closed: Tuesday
Nearest station: Asakusa
To get there: Stand at Kaminarimon with your current review to the Nakamise. Turn right and walk to the second traffic signal, there turn right onto Sushiya street, Take your first left, then your first right into a little alley, then your first left. Everybody knows where Jakotsu-yu is.