Daikoku yu way out in the northern suburbs is a classic bathhouse well known to bath connoisseurs. It is, as they say, worth the trip. Daikoku yu is built in miyazukuri style - in the elaborate style of a royal residence, with a facade like an Indian temple. There is as much space inside as a Roman bath. The lobby looks like a suburban living room, with a big TV, a doll collection, and comics scattered about. There is a tatami area with low tables for apres-bath beer and snacks while looking out on a deep, mossy pool filled with carp. Daikoku yu's roomy sauna costs 400 yen, which is a little expensive for this working-class neighborhood, so it is never crowded. The sauna is well-lit and harbors no TV or loudspeakers, which is fine as sweating in a sauna is essentially a solitary activity. The excellent roofed rotemburo is in a garden. Bathers sit in the garden or lounge half in and half out of the bath while contemplating the trees and the stone lantern. The pace here is roughly that of a drowsy turtle. For those wanting inspiration, there is a serious jet bath. There is a wonderful old ceiling in the changing area and there are 3 serious massage chairs in the lobby. For beer, exit the bath and turn right. There's a little sake shop 75 meters down the road on the right.


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Daikoku yu
32-6 Senju Kotobuki-cho Adachi-ku
Tel: 03.3881.3001

Closed: Thursday Nearest station: 15-minute walk from Kita Senju Station on the Hibiya Line